10 Moments That Shifted Fashion in 2023

26/12/2023

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The year that saw the revival of the 90s supermodel also witnessed shocking label closures and tumultuous rebrandings amidst a scandal or two. LUXUO highlights the year’s top 10 noteworthy moments in fashion.

1. Dynamic Depatures

Tom Ford bids farewell to namesake label with a series of re-issued looks that harken back to seasons past. In his archival womenswear collection campaign we see the likes of Amber Valetta and Karlie Kloss “mourn” the designer. The retrospective collection was shot by Steven Klein and styled by Carine Roitfeld. Along with Tom Ford, Sarah Burton leaves Alexander McQueen after two decades as creative director.

2. Phoebe Philo’s Comeback

Phoebe Philo announced her return after a six-year hiatus following her departure as the creative director of Celine. Her return was a frenzied affair which saw her highly anticipated collection get sold-out within hours of its launch despite little marketing. The sucess of the Philo profile and brand marks a new era in the democritisation of luxury fashion.

3. Moschino Madness

Earlier this year, Jeremy Scott annouced that he would be stepping down from his role as Moshino’s creative director after 10 years. David Renne was later named as his successor only for the young designer untimely death, 10 days into the role.

4. Magic Men

Pharrell Williams for Louis Vuitton, Sabato De Sarno for Gucci and Sean McGirr at McQueen showcase a new dawn for menswear. While we have yet to see a menswear collection from Sarno, his debut runway collection at Milan Women’s Fashion Week in September this year, was a skin-baring minimalistic take on luxury showcasing a departure from his predecessors’s “more is more” approach. Formerly the head of ready-to-wear at JW Anderson, Irish designer Sean McGirr is known to pack a sartorial punch and could be just what the McQueen maison needs to add the edge back into the house post its Sarah Burton era. Pharrell Williams on the other hand is continuing the legacy of his predecessor Kim Jones but this time adding a lot more star power into the mix. His recent Louis Vuitton pre-fall 2024 menswear collection in Hong Kong not only saw A-listers but was infused with his own brand of “futuristic dandy”.

5. The Return of the 90s supermodel

Christy Turlington walks for Ralph Lauren, Naomi Campbell for Dolce & Gabanna – the era of the 90s supermodel not only appeals to a different demographic but signals the change in the longevity of the term “supermodel” as we know it.

6. Concert Collection

First we saw Rihanna at the Super Bowl halftime show performance wearing a custom Alaia coat paired with a bustier from Loewe’s spring/summer 2023 collection. Then Taylor Swift’s Eras Tour where she donned a now famous Atelier Versace silver bodysuit, a Roberto Cavali fringe dress along with a whimsical Etro orange number, each differenciating a different side of Swift and her music. Beyoncé’s Renaissance showcase on the other hand was supreme glamour at its finest. Among the many custom looks she wore were Balenciaga couture gown, a Balmain polka-dot dress, a tasseled Agent Provocateur corseted body suit and a sport-inspired look from Telfar to name but a few. If these three music icons are anything to go by, it may be that fashion has gone off the catwalk and onto the concert stage.

7. BarbieCore and the Neon Effect

The year the world was taken over by the impact of Mattel’s Barbie. Everything was coming up pink as the fans were enamoured by the series of looks seen on Greta Gerwig’s Barbie movie. While we may have seen this new found appreciation for hot pink last year with Pierpaolo Piccioli’s Valentino runway, Margot Robbie’s depiction of Barbie onscreen may have showcased the plethora of fluorescent-inspired looks, from a 50’s pin-up swimsuit to a fringed cowgirl look.